Snakes: Housing

What type of cage does my snake require?

You should try to provide the largest cage possible for your snake. The type of cage you set up must be appropriate for the specific needs of the species. Smaller species or juvenile snakes often do well in a 10–20-gallon aquarium, or even a plastic

Rubbermaid-type container with holes cut in the top for air circulation. As your snake grows, it must be moved to a more comfortable and spacious enclosure. Such enclosures can be purchased commercially or built by the pet owner, using Plexiglass, glass, fiberglass, or untreated wood. Note that wooden cages are very difficult to clean and thoroughly disinfect.

Remove feces and dried urates every 24–72 hours and wash out the cage weekly. Many people strive to create a vivarium or terrarium, with the goal of creating a semi-natural environment with plants, rocks, and tree branches. These enclosures require a lot more work to maintain, but your pet may be happier.

All cages for snakes must be well-ventilated and escape-proof, with sealed seams and a secure top that locks. Your veterinarian or pet store may have examples of these larger enclosures to give you an idea of the proper habitat for an adult snake.

Does my snake need bedding in his cage?

Yes, your snake needs bedding in their cage. Substrate (bedding material) should be easy to clean and non-toxic to the snake. Recommended bedding includes newspaper, butcher paper, towels, or AstroTurf (artificial grass). When using AstroTurf, buy two pieces and cut them to fit the bottom of the cage. Place one piece in the cage and one outside the cage, where it is clean and ready to use. When the turf inside the cage becomes soiled, you can replace it with the clean, dry piece. Clean the soiled turf with ordinary soap and water (avoid harsher products unless your reptile veterinarian approves them), thoroughly rinse it, and hang it to dry, ready to be used at the next cage cleaning.

Except for burrowing species like sand boas, it is recommended to avoid sand, gravel, wood shavings, corncob material, walnut shells, and cat litter. These substrates are not only difficult to clean, but they can also cause intestinal impaction if the snake accidentally ingests them or if food items become coated in the substrate. If particulate bedding must be used, it is wise to feed your snake in a different tank. Avoid cedar wood shavings as they are toxic to reptiles.

What else do I need in the cage?

Your snake will enjoy natural branches in their cage. Any natural branch must be free of insects and must not have been in contact with pesticides. Make sure the branches are secure and will not fall onto the snake and injure it. Ideally, the branch should slope from the bottom of the enclosure to the top and should end near a heat or light source so the snake can bask.

You can place large rocks in the cage to allow for basking, exploring, and rubbing against, during shedding. Also, a safe and secure hiding place is appreciated by all reptiles. A hiding spot could be an upside-down box, a hollow log, a large piece of curved bark, a clay pot, a commercial reptile cave, or artificial vegetation.

Fresh, clean water should always be provided. A large, heavy ceramic crock or bowl (that cannot be spilled easily) may help maintain better humidity in the enclosure. Some snakes enjoy soaking in this dish periodically. Many snakes eliminate in their water bowl as well as drink from it, so water dishes should be cleaned and disinfected every 24–72 hours.

Does my snake need a source of heat?

A heat source is necessary for all reptiles, including snakes. All reptiles are ectotherms, also known as cold-blooded, which means they depend on external or environmental sources of heat to maintain their body heat. They need a range of external temperatures to regulate their internal body temperature.

Ideally, the cage should have a heat gradient, with one area of the tank warmer than the other end, allowing the snake to move around its environment to warm or cool itself as needed. It is best to purchase two thermometers and place one at the cooler end of the cage and one at the warmer end, near the heat source. Tape thermometers work well for this type of temperature assessment. If you position the thermometer at approximately the height where the animal basks, you will know how hot it is at that position.

The temperature in the cage should mimic what the animal would experience in its native, natural environment. Generally, the cooler end of the cage should be about 70ºF–75ºF (21ºC–24ºC), while the warmer end should be 90ºF–95ºF (32ºC–38ºC). An inexpensive way to achieve these temperatures is to supply a focal heat source using a 100-watt incandescent bulb with a protected reflector hood. Alternatively, you can purchase other types of heat lamps and ceramic infrared heat emitters at specialty pet stores. Use these heat sources as directed.

Place your heat source outside the cage, at one end, and cover it with a screened top to prevent the snake from escaping or coming in direct contact with the hot bulb. The heat source should be at least 4–6 inches away from the highest spot the snake can reach in the cage. Snakes can get burned if they rest too close to an exterior heat source. At night, heat is not necessary, as long as the temperature remains at 65ºF–70ºF (18ºC–21ºC).

Human-grade heating pads or under-tank heat pads can also be used for warmth.

Human-grade heating pads or under-tank heat pads can also be used for warmth. If you choose these heating methods, talk to your veterinarian to learn the correct way to use them. Avoid “hot rocks” or “sizzle rocks,” as they are dangerous, ineffective, and can lead to injury.

Natural humidity requirements vary geographically and seasonally. Some homes are too dry for snakes. Many snakes do well with humidity between 40% and 70%, depending on the species. Too much humidity can also be harmful and lead to health problems. Desert species require less humidity.

Does my snake need UVB light?

The light requirements of snakes are not well understood. Most reptiles require UVB light to obtain vitamin D3, but veterinarians are divided about the need for UV light for snakes, because snakes consume whole prey in their diets and the prey is nutritionally balanced for snakes. However, providing UV light is certainly not harmful and may be beneficial, so it is wise to provide some type of UVB light such as a Vita-Lite. Speak with your local pet store or your veterinarian about the need for UVB light for your snake. Many people try to mimic the natural seasonal change in light (photoperiod) to promote good health, balance, and breeding success.